Bears & dnj (Japanese)

Denim, Dialogue, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

DOWN NORTH JEANS“DNJ1”、ルーズブーツカット!

児島×下北沢というBEARS’にとって最も縁の深い2つの土地から生まれたジ
ーンズです!

こちらのジーンズは現在BEARS’のみで手に取り見れるほぼBEARS’限定状態
です!

デニム生地は岡山県倉敷市児島の老舗ファクトリーに依頼し、旧式力織機で
丁寧に織られた13.75ozの赤耳デニムを使用。
シルエットは適度なローライズで穿きやすいルーズブーツカットモデル。
膝の絞りを少し甘くし、裾幅を少し広げたラインは足のラインをきれいに長く見
せます。

本来のシルエットを崩さないよう全てのウエストサイズにレングスをR(レギュラ
)L(ロング)2種類を用意しています。

丈上げをしてシルエットが崩れることを嫌ったデザイナーの丈上げをせずにそ
のままのシルエットで穿きこなせるようにというこだわりが詰まってます!

また、ヒッポケットのステッチは2本のゆるやかなカーブが交差するデザイン。
こちらは交差した所にオレンジ糸でのカン止めを配しており、それは小田急線
と井の頭線が交わる下北沢をイメージしています。
また、デザイナーのこだわりにより、財布を入れやすく、使いやすくするために
気持ち大きめに作られたヒップポケット。

ジッポ等を取り出しやすくするために気持ち大きめに作られたコインポケット。
フロントポケットに手を入れた時のライン、実用性などを考え、入り口を気持ち
広げるなど、実用性に富んだ機能性も兼ねております。

そんなこだわりのジーンズは先にもご紹介した通り、児島の老舗ファクトリーの
信頼できるベテラン職人達の手によって、生地から縫製まで一貫した製作体制
で膨大な時間と限りない愛情を注いで創り上げたジーンズです!

デニム生地もファクトリーの中でも最上級の種類を使用しており、色落ちは折り
紙つきです!

児島、下北沢というBEARS’にとっても、私田口を始め、スタッフ一同にとっても
特に愛すべき土地で生まれたこのジーンズを是非お試し下さい!!

mo-dnj1.jpgmo-dnj1-2.jpgmo-dnj1-3.jpg

※撮影中の会話※

モデル

・レングスを切らないで穿けるってのはすごい喜びですね()

田口
・足の短い君には特にね()でもさ、ストレートにしても、ブーツカット
にしても、レングスはみんな切るじゃない?それってパターン(シルエ
ット)を崩すってことなんだよね。でもこれは、それを嫌がって、この状
態でパターンを引いてるから、デザインそのままのシルエットを楽しめ
るんだよね。モデル
・それがいいんですよ、いつも裾切ってるから、もったいないなぁとも
思ってましたし()
田口
・このゆるめのブーツカットラインがすごいオシャレでいいよね。裾も
やや広がりでるテーパードが無いって感じのラインになっていいね。モデル
・このナチュラルなラフレアインがすごくいいですよ、穿き心地も楽で
すしね。
Source: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/bears/downnorthjeans-dnj1/

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dnj’s philosophies (Japanese)

Denim, Dialogue, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

長い間……
下北沢の街から何かをインディーズ的に発信したいと思い、ずっと考えてきました。
そして、演出の仕事と同じ位好きなジーンズを作ってみたい、
ハイクオリティのジーンズを世の中に出したいと強く思うようになりました。ダウンノースジーンズ<dnj>にとっての下北沢の原風景……
それは70年代に見かけたさりげない日常です。
南口から北口へ抜ける踏切で通過する小田急線を待つロックミュージシャン、
ジョニー吉長と金子マリの『肩を組みジーンズを穿いた後ろ姿』です。
二人ともまだ若くて自由で最高にかっこよかった!あの時見かけた記憶
ジーンズ=ブーツカットを最高の形で再構築したい
記憶との戦いからdnj2006年春スタートしました。ジーンズを作るなら最高の技術を持つ職人たちと組みたい……
dnj
は旧知でもあった岡山県・児島の老舗ファクトリーに生地制作・縫製等を依頼。
快諾して頂き信頼できる制作体制を整えることができました。
運が良かったとしかいいようがありません。
さらに、友人たちの手助けと尽力でステキなスタッフが集まり
2007
年に発表するにふさわしい一本のジーンズが誕生しました。
プロダクト名 Southside Bootcut (O/W)自由で世間の常識に縛られない……
この街を往くミュージシャンをイメージしたジーパンです。
皆様が、このジーンズを穿いてシモキタの街のカフェで語らい、眠亭で飯を食い、
トラブルピーチで酒に酔い、スズナリや屋根裏で芝居や音楽を楽しむ……そんなことを夢見てdnjは2007年小さな一歩を踏み出します。

Dir. Muramoto

Source: http://www.downnorth.jp/htmls/about/about.html   

A personal take from Taishi Muramoto(dir.) of dnj

Denim, Dialogue, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

The reason why I wanted to make jeans is written in my web site. Other than what I wrote on the web site,

I wanted to create something I can touch by hand. On the other hand, I strongly feel that “I would like to give a shape to something invisible” This my sound a little bit emotional though…

Dir. Muramoto

Original dialogue in Japanese. Japanese text translated by: Yukiyo Yamanaka

dnj’s philosophies

Denim, Dialogue, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

For a long time I have thought about creating somnething like indies. And I came to think strongly about creating jeans, which I love as much as my director job, providing high qualitied jeans to the world. 

The virgin landscape for DownNorth Jeans <dnj>

 It is the simple daily life I saw in 1970’s. The rock musicians waiting for Odakyu line train passing by the railway crossing from south gate to norgh gate, Johnny Yoshinaga and Mari Kaneko, “back style holding each other’s shoulder” They were both still young, free and very cool! The memory I saw them at that time… I want to restructure jeans: bootcut in the best style… I started battling with my memory in the spring of 2006 I want to work with the craftmen with the best technique if I ever create jeans…

dnj asked an old factory in Kojima of Okayama prefecture, which have been a long time friend for me, to create fabric, sew etc. They willingly accepted my request and we organized trustworthy manufaturing system. I was just lucky.

 With my friends’ help and effort, we gathered nice staffs and a pair of jeans were born which is suitable for introducing in 2007. Product name Southside Boothcut (O/W) 

Free from public common sense…

 These are the jeans with the image of musician who goes through this town.

Dreaming of you guys in these jeans chatting in a cafe of Shimokitazawa, eating in Mintei, getting drunk in Trouble Peach, enjoying play and music in Suzunari and Yaneura…

With these dreams, dnj makes the small first step in 2007.

Dir. Muramoto

Original quote in Japanese: https://selvage.wordpress.com/2007/09/06/dnj%e2%80%99s-philosophies-japanese/ | http://www.downnorth.jp/htmls/about/about.html

Japanese text translated by: Yukiyo Yamanaka

A dialogue with dnj [english]

Denim, Dialogue, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

Published 13th July 2007

Article written by: Robin Lee

Japanese text translated by: Yukiyo Yamanaka

a

DownNorth Jeans

[dnj]

top2.jpg

A label inspired from the vibrant streets of ShimoKitazawa and a passion for a unique pair of premium selvage indigo denim. 

Down at 6-27-13 Daita, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, an establishment by the name of [dnj] DownNorth Jeans sits in a tastefully designed shop with classical and yet contemporary theme makes one’s visit a different feeling all together. 

[dnj] DownNorth Jeans’s founder, Mr. Taishi Muramoto who is one of Japan’s hottest young television commercial directors and recently made his first feature movie is also a serious selvage denim connoisseur.

Mr. Taishi Muramoto has invested his valuable time in creating a label catering to a different crowd, unlike what is on offer in the current market. Like many selvage denim connoisseur, the general offerings from major Japanese labels just couldn’t satisfy Mr. Taishi Muramoto appetite any longer, hence creating his own label. 

With such passionate enthusiasm, the [dnj] DownNorth Jeans label was born. It is unique with its own flair and philosophy, a warm welcome to the industry as it has been flooded with a little too familiar styles and jeans philosophies.  

[dnj] DownNorth Jeans’s philosophy gives one the feeling of being with one-self, at ease and a sense of freedom. Actor, Jun Murakami a dear friend of Mr. Taishi Muramoto decided to help out by being the brand’s ambassador which is evident from DownNorth Jeans website with a collection of tasteful photos depicting Mr. Jun Murakami wandering the streets of ShomoKita showcasing the exclusive low production [dnj] DownNorth Jeans and apparels. 

I have the privilege to an exclusive interview with Mr. Taishi Muramoto the founder of [dnj] DownNorth Jeans to share with us the concept behind the label, its philosophies and its latest premium indigo selvage denim jeans, the SouthSide Bootcut 625A. 

0 

The interview was not an easy one as I have to translate back and forth between English and Japanese as the article was intended to be in both languages directing to English and Japanese readers. I would like to sincerely thank Mr. Muramoto for taking time to answer my questions and Ms. Yamanaka for the translation. After spending days on the e-mail and drafts, here is what Mr. Muramoto has to say: 

1 

DownNorth Jeans, where does the name come from? 

In Japanese “Down” is “Shimo ()”, “North” is “Kita ()”. DownNorth is a local jeans brand with the direct translation of the name of the area I live, “Shimo Kita Zawa (下北沢)”. 

Where is [dnj] DownNorth Jeans based? 

6-27-13 Daita, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, zip 155-0033 

Who is the person behind the [dnj] DownNorth Jeans brand? 

Taishi Muramoto 村本天志 (first name: Taishi: 天志, family name: Muramoto: 村本) 

There are over 50 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes [dnj] DownNorth Jeans stand out from the rest? 

It is not easy to find a clear differentiator since all the other brands also create jeans with their own policy and philosophy. But if I dare say, we studied typical Japanese body shape to make our jeans comfortable for Japanese people. 

2

dnj_logo2.jpg 

What is the philosophy behind [dnj] DownNorth Jeans? 

Happy Denime! 

How do you describe [dnj] DownNorth Jeans as a brand? 

Indigo & Undergrounds.  

61a.jpg

Actor Jun Murakami were portrayed on [dnj] DownNorth Jeans website, is he DownNorth Jeans brand ambassador? 

Because he acts in many of my movie works and is also a precious friend. (This is for friendship) 

3 

What can you tell us about [dnj] DownNorth Jeans latest and flagship denim, the SouthSide bootcut 625A? 

We made this with the image of free musician who walks around the south gate of Shimo Kitazawa station. 

The philosophy behind [dnj] DownNorth Jeans SouthSide Bootcut 625A? 

Bootcut that fits you without cutting short the length.

 denim.jpg

The style/cutting of SouthSide bootcut 625A is very different from other Japanese premium denim jeans, what is the philosophy behind it? 

Not sure about specification difference but we create our jeans so that our customers don’t feel “the typical stress for wearing bootcut”. 

What materials are used in the construction of [dnj] DownNorth Jeans SouthSide Bootcut 625A jeans? 

  • 100% cotton
  • Right twill selvage
  • Deep indigo dye
  • 13.75 ounces

 * Details in part b. 

4 

Most premium denim jeans employ these keywords on their jeans: Natural indigo dye, exotic organic cotton, old shuttle looms, and artisan touch, what is your opinion on this subject? Is it too common now? 

Our jeans also follow those keywords but at the same time we seek for more contemporary approach. Classic and mode at the same time… we hope the customers keep [dnj] for 5 years and 10 years. 

5 

[+/end of interview*-] 

b 

Following details [photos and descriptions] of [dnj] SouthSide Bootcut 625A. 

Denim The first product of DownNorth Jeans is loose bootcut. 13.75 ounce, right twiled strong and flexible fabric is dyed into deep deep blue.

botton2.jpg

We care about details like silhouette, useful pocket and front button, tag, leather patch as well as length especially in this model. We dare provide 2 types of length, 77cm and 80cm. This is because we would like you to put on original silhouette, without cutting.

silhouette.jpg

We don’t just shorten the hem but develop pattern based on knee position for each of length types. The silhouette is moderate lowrise and comfortable loose bootcut.  Not shaping knee very tight, with bottom a little wide, this silhouette has effect to make your legs look longer.

patch.jpg

As for leather patches, after branding goat skin, we have each of them washed by hand one by one, dried out door under sun, then soaked into oil one by one, and then dried under sun again.  Then after O/W jeans, we have patch attached. We create patched in this time consuming careful way. The leather patch design is “j” logo on top, “j” for “jeans”.

selvedge.jpg 

13.75 ounce red selvage made in kojima is carefully woven by old fashioned weaving machine which can create 90cm width cloth only. Turn the hem and show the red selvage just a little bit for accent.

stitch.jpg

Most of the stitches are in yellow with adult taste but the 2 curved lines are crossed on upper part on hip pockets.  This is the inmage of Odakyu-line and Inokashira-line that go through Shimokitazawa. The orange stitch symbolizes for Shimokitazawa station. pocket.jpg

Non riveted selvage denim. tag.jpg 

DownNorth Jeans label.

tag2.jpg

Made in Japan [Kojima Shimo Kitazawa] 

[+/end of article*-] 

Japanese version of this article also available.  [© 2007 RL & YY | selvage.wordpress.com. © 2007 Down North Jeans. all rights reserved.]

dnj

Denim, dnj, Down North Jeans, Selvage

The label DownNorth Jeans may not ring a bell to most selvage denim connoisseur around the world. But one look and feel on their latest selvage indigo denim might change your perception about other mainstream selvage denim labels out there in the market.

Kojima, the holy land of Japanese selvage denim producers had since saturated in many ways, the most prominent being too many players in this already congested but still lucrative industry.

There are a lot of big names out there with 10 to 30 years of experiences in selvage denim making but most often their styles and philosophies remained bland with the majority in the re-production of old faithfull’s business.

It all started after the Second World War where the influx of denim started which had since change the clothing culture for good. Take for instance the original 5 pocket design of any denim, what makes a premium denim stands out from the rest you might ask. I must admit, it must be the branding, or otherwise we’d all be wearing a single brand till now.

Different brand often offer owner’s a different feel or fit but not necessary an authentic history behind the label. It is obvious with the entire industry being flooded with too similar design of the popular denim design, too similar at times.

DownNorth Jeans is a little different with its styles, fit and philosophies compared to the rest. No, they didn’t try re-inventing the wheel nor just hommaged like the others did but added flair and individuality to their creations. I was very curious about the label’s philosophies which prompted me to find out more resulting an interesting dialogue at the end of the day.